Je ne suis pas sûre de l'origine de ce rituel, auquel se plie la quasi totalité des adolescentes de ce pays. A-t-il un rapport avec les "sweet sixteen" des juives américaines? Cette fête a-t-elle été importée des États-Unis, ou remonte-t-elle aux temps coloniaux? En tout cas il s'agit, semble-t-il, d'un reliquat de l'époque où toute jeune fille bien née se devait de faire son entrée officielle dans le monde. Un marché au bétail, en somme. Actuellement, on ne songe plus à choisir un mari à sa fille, mais la cérémonie conserve une connotation très forte. Dans les couches sociales les plus aisées, on a coutume de dire une messe en l'honneur de la jeune fille, qui est souvent habillée de blanc, comme pour un mariage ou une communion; la donzelle remercie ainsi son Créateur pour les quinze premières années de sa vie qu'elle vient de vivre. Elle ira ensuite sûrement se faire photographier sous tous les angles, comme celle que j'ai vue plus tarde ce même jour rejoindre sa limo blanche au sortir d'un studio photographique exhibant en devanture des photos tellement retouchées et kitsch que même à 13 ans, en pleine période girly, je les aurais trouvées too much. Et plus tard, place à la fête: la demoiselle, toujours en robe de princesse, invite ses amis à une espèce de bal de Cendrillon moderne, dans lequel la pantouffle de vair côtoie le petit sac Chanel sous l'oeil bienveillant des parents désignés comme chaperons. Alcool ou pas, il semblerait que cela dépende beaucoup du milieu social. Certains de mes amis m'ont raconté qu'ils avaient pris leurs premières cuites l'année de leurs 15 ans, lorsque chaque week-end ou presque était l'occasion de fêter l'anniversaire d'une copine de classe. Premiers pelotages, échanges de fluides divers avec diverses personnes... Le cauchemar pour les parents qui se veulent libéraux.
Au moment où je dépassais ce kitschissime convoi, nous passions justement devant une des nombreuses boutiques qui diffusent de la musique à plein tube. Cette fois-ci, c'était du gros reggaeton bien vulgaire, j'ai ri du contraste! Quelques mètres plus loin, des types en chapeau de cow-boys, une odeur de tacos trop gras et de la musique ranchera bien rustique; puis une papeterie remplie de ballons en forme de coeur et diffusant du Bryan Adams. Non, pas de doute, je vis bien au Mexique, là où tous les contrastes sont possibles.
J'ai finalement continué ma route, en jeans sur mon vélo un peu sale, les cheveux mal rangés sous mon casque, comme si je n'avais pas rencontré la Belle au Bois Dormant en plein quartier populaire d'Aguascalientes. Souhaitons-lui de ne pas se réveiller trop brutalement...
27 commentaires:
De retour du Mexique, je dois encore faire de l'ordre dans mes souvenirs. J'ai eu beaucoup de plaisir à découvrir ce pays. A Puebla, il y a une rue des confiseurs où j'ai vu les têtes de morts en sucre que tu as décrites dans ton blog en novembre. J'ai préféré manger un camote (bâton de pâte de patate douce), assez bon et surtout plus appétissant que ces têtes. C'est vrai que les Mexicains semblent aimer tout ce qui est coloré et kitsch. Au plaisir de lire ton prochain récit.
Aaaah, les camotes! Oui, c'est très bon.
Je ne connais pas Puebla, mais tout le monde dit que c'est très mignon, il faudra que j'aille y faire un tour avant de rentrer...
Il y a Puebla, Oaxaca, San Cristobal de las Casas...
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